A
few years ago, I bought a bronze fennel bush at a garden centre
specialising in herbs, near Chesterfield in Derbyshire. We kept it
in a pot on our roof terrace in London, where it quietly survived. We
then then took it to Normandy when we moved here, put in in a proper
garden, and it has thrived: this year it reached nearly two metres.
It
is not the bulb fennel, sometimes called Florentine fennel, sold in
supermarkets and elsewhere for use in salads and with fish. This one
starts with intensely bushy stalks, thickly covered with fronds; bit
like dill on steroids. Gradually the stalks get longer and the fronds
more separated. Eventually, it produces a host of yellow flower
heads, flat with a mass of tiny flowers, like all the umbelliferae
plants. These flowers are covered with bees, hoverflies and other
insects. Finally the flowers turn to seeds. I gather these and keep
them for cooking. Their liquorice taste adds a deep flavour to
stocks, soups and sauces, to some salads, and as a component of any
spicy dish. I probably use them at least five times a week. In
winter, the plant just dies back to the ground.
Each
year, for a day or two, in late may or June, we have a swallowtail
butterfly or two flying in the garden, and always ending up on the
fennel. Then we have caterpillars, starting as small, dull things a
centimetre or two long, but within days becoming three times the
size, and turning black and green. They sit on a stalk and eat the
fronds until all that is left is the stalk, and they move to another.
They don't damage the plant; unlike some pest species, there are
usually only up to a dozen. Three weeks later they have all gone,
each turned into a chrysalis out of sight.